Thursday, April 28, 2011

The Difference Between Right And Wrong


So I was having a conversation with one of my good friends here (another volunteer) a while back about dealing with the fact that we both live in extremely small rural sites in which we are the only foreigners. In both our cases this meant that we were quite literally one of the only people that anyone from our site had interacted with closely, and routinely, who came from a different culture and had different ideas and ways of doing things. Now as someone who has a lot of experience traveling the world, I am pretty used to encountering different ways of thinking, doing daily tasks, and preparing food. Due to this experience I am probably much more adept at adjusting to new surroundings and open to new ideas than many Americans (for example, in Taiwan I happily ate jelly fish and a kind of tofu called smelly dofu, which literally emits the smell of dog poop when it is being fried). Thus going into this experience I was confident that I would be able to adjust to the culture and food of my new home relatively rapidly (even though honestly it is pretty hard to imagine two places more different than Washington DC, the capital of the most developed country in the world, and La Fraternidad, one of the smallest backwoods municipalities in the smallest department in one of the least developed countries in the western hemisphere). I was also pretty confident that even though I am the first volunteer (or American in general for that matter) to live in the town, people would adjust to my presence and cultural differences over the first six months. But quite honestly, before settling into my village I had no idea how un-adept they would be at this.

Going into this experience, I could not have been prepared to how completely closed off rural Hondurans are to the possibility of any other way of thinking or doing anything in a different way. This inability to adjust their way of thinking or accept my way of doing things as a different but valid option truly baffled me at first. They were so closed off to new ways of approaching anything, that I came to realize that they viewed my actions and beliefs not just as different, but as wrong and many times as a sign that I was “mal educado” (basically that I had bad manners). This was very frustrating and at times somewhat offensive until I finally realized that they honestly did not know better.

This finally occurred to me when I was talking to my friend’s four year old son, and I didn’t understand a phrase and asked him to repeat it. He proceeded to shout it directly into my ear, assuming that I was just hard of hearing, because it was inconceivable that I didn’t understand Spanish perfectly (or even that I didn’t speak it exactly like everyone in town). When his father and I tried to explain that Spanish wasn’t my first language, he was truly dumbstruck that such people existed (he had heard me speak English on the phone and I think just thought I had learned it in school like everyone here, but was just a way better student).

While he was just a child, I realized that his behavior was actually indicative of a general trend. The vast majority of the people in my village have never traveled more than ten miles from home, and have never been exposed to different ways of thinking, talking or doing daily tasks. Thus they do not understand that there can be multiple ways of doing things in many cases. This lead to situations, like when my friends watched me make white rice by boiling it in water, as opposed to frying it in vegetable oil (actually how they make rice), it isn’t different, it’s wrong (This reaction was made more interesting by the fact that they were all men, and thus had literally never made rice before, but they knew I was doing it differently than their wives and mothers).

Monday, March 7, 2011

Random pictures people might enjoy...Or it's easier than writing



All’s fair in Mice and War, or Of Mice and Men (killing those mice)


So it has been approximately two months since I have posted anything on this blog, and I figured I owed to my fans to get back to it and keep you all up dated on my life (also I got tired of people telling me about how much better jack is at this PC blog thing than I am). So I figured I would start off with a blog that highlights the most important and time consuming project I am working on right now. Now it was hard to decide what this was, between the micro-business I am setting up with a group of local women, the trash and recycling project I am working on with the environmental director at the mayor’s office, and the GPS work I am doing with the Catastro department. But after looking at all the option it became clear to me: it’s my ongoing war with the mice that live in my house.

Some of you may already know of this brutal six month long campaign I have been waging against dangerous rebel factions living in the walls and ceilings of my casita. (This is because it is rarely far from my mind, and tends to work its way into most of my conversations.) However for those of you not up to date on this ongoing conflict, I recommend checking out the New York Times coverage of the struggle. (Just kidding, their coverage of the event is totally biased and unfairly critical of my repressive tactics). So I’ll take it upon myself to present you all with a brief history of the conflict.

When I moved into my house it had been uninhabited for years, except my landlords somewhat unbalanced uncle who squatted there amidst trash and broken furniture, as well as a mountain of corn cobs (never really figured that one out). So, when I moved in I cleaned in out and threw out all of the junk and cleaned it thoroughly. Unfortunately the mice who had been co-habiting with my landlord’s uncle didn’t get the message to move out. Instead they decided to stick around and pillage my food, chew up my work papers, and poop and pee everywhere (including in the ceiling above my bed… you can imagine where that ends up when it falls through the ceiling cracks). Now not being a doctor I’m not sure of the medical repercussions of having mouse poop fall on you, or in your eating area, but I can’t imagine that they are positive. So I thought I would solve the problem by buying a mouse trap and cementing up their holes. Man was I wrong, apparently Honduran mice are some smart sneaking little guys, since they kept stealing the bate from the traps and digging new tunnels. (By this point in our war I am fairly certain that they have an intricate series of tunnels running through my walls reminiscent of Vietcong bunkers. For this reason I have never ventured to stick my hand into one of the holes for fear of tiny pungi stick booby-traps.)

I’ll save you the details, but this war has gotten ugly. I have resorted at various times to poisoning them, glue trapping them, hitting one with a machete when he jumped out of the truck bench seat I use as a couch, and once even trying an ill advised flame thrower attack (I tried to blow bug spray at a lit match into their hole (Sorry mom). Needless to say this resulted in no dead mice and some singed eyebrows). I even took a page out of Momar’s book and brought in outside mercenaries to brutally repress them (too soon?), though in my case these foreign fighters are cats that climb into my ceiling at night. I have also taken defensive maneuvers such as storing food in bags hanging from the ceiling (it’s like I’m permanently camping, but worried about mice instead of bears), and tacking up a tarp to cover the holes in my ceiling over my bed. Though as varied and desperate as my tactics are, they are not as wild as my friend Jesse who has killed mice in his house by drowning them, smashing them with a beer crate and even once by tossing boiling water from his coffee maker on one who was running across his counter.

I should note though, that this has not been a one sided battle, the mice have not just rolled over and surrendered, but have instead led some daring counter offensives (from this we know they aren’t French mice). They have at various times snuck into a closed suitcase to eat (and poop in) a bag of pistachios my mom sent me, dove from a crack in the ceiling into a bag I hung from the ceiling to eat (and poop in) another bag of pistachios, and climb a shirt in my closet (actually just a broom handle hanging from the ceiling that I hang cloths on) to eat (and, oh yes, poop on) the last of the homemade cookies Alyson sent me. (Hint: If you want me to love and worship you eternally like I now do Alyson, feel free to send me baked goods and candy as well). Hopefully now you can understand my indignation and rage at these clearly malicious acts (eating my food is one thing but pooping on it afterwards is just going too far), and why I have been forced to take such drastic actions. Now, if the collective kill count of 23 confirmed mice, (and I can only assume my walls are choked with dead mice after my liberal use of poison pellets) just remember, they ruined two bags of pistachios, ate two homemade cookies, and (oh yeah, let’s not forget) POOPED ON MY PILLOW.

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Matando la Vaca… or where steak comes from

So I showed up to work the other Friday assuming it would be a day like any other. (Get there at 8, hang out chatting till around 10, put in a good thirty minutes of work, snack time, put in another 30 mins of work, two hour lunch break, get back and chat some more, then watch novelas on the office tv until 4 when we get to go home for the day. Strenuous, I know.) But no, today was to be an adventure. We had the usual first hour of hang out and chat time, but come 9, all of the men in the office headed out. When I asked where everyone was going they told me they were off to butcher a cow for the mayors one year in office celebration dinner. (I would like to add that it was a pretty baller party idea seeing as the mayor, Don Chepe, decided to put on this celebration completely out of pocket and invited all 1000 people in the casco urbano.) I feel like I should have been tipped off to this by the fact that throughout the morning dudes kept showing up at the office holding carving knives, but to be honest after four months here in Frate, things like that don’t really even show up on my weirdness radar anymore. If anything I was probably just wondering who these pansies were who only walked around with carving knives rather than the customary machete and pistol combo.

When my friend the Vice Alcalde informed me of where they were going and offered me an invite I figured, “sure, why not”, and joined them. I figured that it was a manly pursuit and didn’t want to get left behind at the office, with them all thinking I was effeminate, or a vegetarian (words that I can only assume are synonyms here). Also I love beef but had never taken part in killing an animal for its meat (as a Peruvian Spanish teacher of mine once pointed out, Americans love beef but hate to see a cow get killed), so I figured this was a good way to rectify this incongruity and test my commitment to delicious steak and hamburgers. I asked my friends if I needed to change my cloths out of office attire, to something more suited for the pursuit of cow killing and butchering, and they assured me that I did not. Luckily I have lived here long enough to know that assurances like that are rarely true, and I rushed home to switch into my waterproof hiking boots rather than my dress shoes (and thank god I did).

Note: If you are squeamish or would continue to keep eating beef in blissful ignorance stop reading here.

The actual cow killing itself was quite possibly the most macabre spectacle I have ever witnessed, but was not without some level of dark (ok maybe im just a terrible person) humor. A lot of this was because the guys I was working with were definitely not experts at this (I’m fairly certain that only one of them had actually even killed a cow before). This is mostly because in a mountainous (and relatively poor) town like mine there are not a lot of cows to be had, and those that there are generally reserved for milking purposes, since they are like super expensive in comparison to say a chicken or turkey (or even a pig). Also as we were killing the one cow, another team of cow killers (not sure what the proper term is; Butchers? Matadors?) were busy killing another cow (this wasn’t some lame one cow kind of party my mayor was planning). I can only hope (mostly for the other cow’s sake) that the other guys were more experienced professionals; it might have been that as a novice I was put on the B-team, who knows. Any way it honestly felt like I was taking part in “The Three Stooges Kill a Cow” (though there were like 6 guys, and a bunch more looking on and interjecting with advice from time to time (most commonly some version of “I think you need to stab it again, it’s still not dead”). This is because, I shit you not (sorry about the profanity assorted relatives and family friends), they had decided to stab it in the heart, rather than cut its throat (which I later learned from talking to various people is the normal way to kill a cow). This ended up being quite the production because it wasn’t till we had hog tied the poor animal down, with her left side down, that they informed me of this plan. For those of you not even the slightest bit knowledgeable on anatomy (the men of my town apparently) the heart is located on said left side. This meant that we had to flip this huge fricken cow over, which involved a lot of pushing and pulling and (I know I’m terrible) was kind of funny to see in a really ridiculous kind of way. Also at some point in this process the cow pooped everywhere out of fear, which really added to the atmosphere. Eventually they got it in position, and I will save you the gory details (and gory it was, I still can’t bring myself to look any of the cows in the town in the eye), but they ended up stabbing it somewhere between seven and ten times, and it bled out over a period of like twenty plus minutes.

Then came the really bloody part in which involved us skinning and butchering the animal. Once again I will just give you the highlights, but it was really pretty disturbing, and involved a fair amount of ax work (I believe professional butchers in the states avoid the ax due to the sheer volume of bone shards it leaves in your meat, here though we just learn to eat around them). One new thing I learned from this process is that muscles continue to twitch after you have killed an animal and removed cuts of meat from the corpse (believe me it is more than a little freaky to be carrying a bucket load of meat and realize that it is twitching). However nothing in the entire process came to close to weirding me out as thoroughly as when we discovered the cow fetus… that’s right I just said COW FETUS. Apparently unbeknownst to us the cow was pregnant. It looked like an alien (like all fetuses) and was quite unsettling.

The experience was definitely an unsettling one, but it did have its good moments. Once the all of the work was done we did get to enjoy the fruits of our labor. We had fresh carne asada with chismol (pico de gallo to those of you more accustomed to Mexican food… or cut up onion, cilantro, and tomatoes to those of you not). This was pretty spectacular since it was super fresh, and we washed it down with warm Tecate (for those of you not familiar with this beer, it basically tastes like someone peed in a can and then carbonated it… especially when served at room temperature). After a half dozen of these with my mayor, and basically the entire male staff of the municipality I returned home, grabbed my bag, and headed out to the nearest big town to hang out with some friends. And by headed out I mean I hitched a jalon (ride) with some guys I know bringing a pickup truck load of coffee into town to sell. And by hitched a ride I mean I got to lay flat on top of like 30 sacks of coffee and cling on for dear life on freezing mountain roads in the mist. I have to admit this was a trying experience, especially seeing as I had a belly full of warm cheep beer and basically felt like I was going to wet myself the entire ride.

Overall it was a worthwhile experience in which I learned a lot about my own limits and at the same time gained a lot of respect from my town. A bunch of the people who were there have told me that they are impressed that I take part in unpleasant tasks and am willing to go through the same hard ships as them and also that I just spend time hanging out with them.